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Weedin' In Eden
Judy J. Crawford

Your Best Defense Is A Good Offense!

The best way to fight weeds is to prevent them from ever getting a foothold in your garden. The first step is to deprive weeds of what they need - sunlight!

I mulch my flower beds heavily. When I'm making a new flower bed, I put down a thick layer (around 5 - 8 sheets) of black & white newspaper sections right on top of the freshly turned & amended soil. I wet the soil first, then put down the newspapers, then wet the papers. Then I put a thick mulch down on top of that. In my garden, I use compost & shredded leaves for mulch, as well as for amending my soil.

The newspapers block sunlight to the ever-present weed seeds that lay dormant in the soil. No sunlight, no germination (in most cases). In the cases where the weeds do go ahead and germinate, they usually can't push their way through the newspapers, so they soon die and decompose. Your earthworms will help the newspapers decompose, too.

Amending the soil ensures that the plants have optimum nutrients available when they start to grow right where they need it most - at the roots.

Wetting the soil and then the newspapers ensures that there's good contact between the two surfaces, helping the earthworms with their job.

Putting compost & leaf mulch on top of the newspapers helps hide them, because, let's be honest, a garden bed topped with newspapers isn't very attractive. Sometimes I put finely ground bark mulch on top of the newspapers, rather than compost, if I'm not going to be planting the bed for a while. This helps the area stay weed free until I have a chance to get busy and landscape it.

Cardboard can be used instead of newspapers, if you like.


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Why not use plastic instead of newspapers?

I'm not a fan of plastic in the garden for a permanent solution to weeds. It can tear easily, for starters. Also, it blocks the natural exchange of air and water to the soil. This is not healthy for the soil, nor is it healthy for beneficial soil organisms, nor is it good for any plants you want to grow in the area. Also, water can collect and pool on top of it, which can promote some undesired growth of molds and algae.


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How long do weed seeds live?

Weed seeds can survive in a dormant state in the soil for years! According to research done by Arnold Appleby, professor emeritus of weed science at Oregon State University:

  • Annual ryegrass - up to nine years
  • Quackgrass - up to four years
  • Mustard - many decades; some have been known to sprout after 600 years!
  • Lambsquarters - up to four decades
  • Canada Thistle - more than two decades
  • Field Bindweed - more than 50 years
  • Leafy Spurge - several years


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What about bark mulch, wood chips, or sawdust?

Bark mulch, wood chips, and sawdust are generally not regarded as beneficial for garden beds. Why? Because these products can "steal" nitrogen from the soil, thereby robbing your existing plants from the essential nutrition they need. As a rule, plants get their nitrogen from the soil - meaning, through decomposition the micro-organisms in the soil convert raw nitrogen into a form that plants can use. Bark mulch, wood chips and sawdust are very slow to decompose, and can disrupt the natural decomposition process. If you do use any of these products, it is very important that you add nitrogen back to the soil via a purchased product, such as alfalfa pellets or bloodmeal, or else you risk starving your plants. Other disadvantages of these products are: products need to be changed out or refreshed in order to look their best; products sometimes harbor pests, including mice; there are several kinds of harmful aggressive molds & fungus that flourish in bark mulch.

http://helios.bto.ed.ac.uk/bto/microbes/nitrogen.htm#crest
http://web.reed.edu/academic/departments/biology/nitrogen/
http://www.mcdb.ucla.edu/html/ri4.htm

Have A "No Bare Earth" Policy

Once you've established a semblance of control of the existing weeds by mulching your beds, the next step is to prevent new ones from establishing themselves. You can accomplish this by making sure that there is no bare dirt exposed. My preference is to cover the ground with plants.

Most shrubs, and some trees, create an environment beneath their branches that naturally controls most weeds. But what about the rest of the garden bed? The solution is simple: incorporate a variety of groundcovers (ground-hugging shrubs, perennials, ornamental grasses, and naturalizing annuals) into the area, and weeds won't be able to compete!

Go ahead and plant your shrubs directly through the newspaper & mulch. Simply dig a hole in the paper, taking care not to rip the entire mulch system into shreds beyond the planting hole. Put the plant in the hole, repack with soil, and you're done!

By covering the ground with the plants YOU want, weeds will have a tough time getting started if there are established groundcovers already present, competing for available sunlight, water, and nutrients.

Having a variety of plants in your garden beds will not only be beautiful, but it will attract beneficial insects that will help you with your battle against pests. Bio-diversity is key to a healthy garden.

Keeping the ground covered by plants helps to maintain a more constant soil temperature and moisture level, which in turn creates a healthy environment for the plants.

Never Give Up The Fight!

In order to keep your garden weed-free, you must eternally be diligent about yanking out the newcomers. It helps to follow some kind of schedule or routine, so you can ensure that the weeds never get ahead of you.

Weeds are easier to pull when the ground is wet.

You must ensure you pull out the roots, or else the weed will probably re-grow.

You must not allow weeds to go to seed, or else you are defeating your efforts.

In the newsletter section of this website I share the weeding schedule I follow in my own garden. I break up my garden into sections, and weed just one section each week. It's simply too overwhelming for me to tackle the entire garden at once.


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BEWARE OF WEEDY GRASSES!

Grasses can be the most pervasive of all weeds. Not only do they self-sow readily, many spread by underground runners or stolons, which are a modified kind of root. Most weedy grasses manage to find a way to break through any mulch or landscape fabric. Complete diligence is the only way to control them. You must pull them out as soon as you see them starting to sprout, and get as much of the root & runner system as you possibly can. You may need to ensure the soil is very wet (from rain or a hose) before you pull, or you risk only getting the leaves. If the roots remain in the soil, the weed will regrow.

Are You In An All-Out Weed War?

Coming Soon!

More information on the weapons you can wield to win the Battle of the Weeds.

 

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Last revised: July 18, 2001.